Croatia, Primosten

Continuing north with the Dinaric Alps soaring above us inland and catching the clouds as they rushed in from the sea we stopped again at Primošten, not because there was anything in particular to see there but just because we liked it there.

In the past Primošten was situated on an islet close to the mainland and was protected by walls and towers and it was connected to the mainland by a draw bridge.  When these protective arrangements were no longer required the draw bridge was replaced by a causeway and in 1564 the settlement was named Primosten after the Croatian verb primostiti which means to span. This old part of the town is built on a hill and is dominated by the parish church of St. George which was built in 1485 next to the local graveyard from which there is a splendid view over the sea and the surrounding mountains.

After we had been to the top and back we stopped for a drink in the same bar as the previous Saturday but it was much more comfortable today on account of there being no wind on this occasion.  Sitting in the hot April sun was very pleasant and after the drink we walked some more and completely circumnavigated the little islet and investigated some of the little back streets and alleys.  This was probably the most picturesque of all of the Adriatic towns that we passed by or visited on our journey and it was lovely here today but I imagine that it can get a bit overcrowded in the summer.

Leaving Primošten we carried on north past Šibenik and retraced our route back towards Zadar and the airport.  On the way we stopped off at Šukosan where we had spent the first night and had a late afternoon early evening meal at the Kod Gusta restaurant where we had enjoyed our fish on the first evening.  At four o’clock it was empty but the staff made us feel welcome and to be consistent with all of our previous menu choices this week we choose the catch of the day that turned out to be a succulent sea bass with red gills and bright eyes and pulled fresh from the Adriatic.  As we dined the restaurant began to fill with locals and it became clear that this was the place where men would stop off on the way home from work for a glass of beer and plate of whitebait or calamari.

After an excellent meal we walked for the last time by the sea and enjoyed the warm late afternoon sun before it was time to go back to the airport, return the car and get the late flight home to Stansted.  The visit to Croatia had been a wonderful experience that surpassed all expectations.  The highlights were Mostar, which strictly speaking is not really in Croatia at all, Diocletian’s Palace in Split and the Krka National Park.  Oh yes, not forgetting Trogir, Primosten, Hvar and the two nights at the Pink Inn.


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