Greece 2009, Sifnos, My Favourite Greek Island

Once on board we made our way to the open top deck and made ourselves comfortable in the sun.  We knew all about the Agios Georgios because we had used it last year so we knew the best place to sit.  After the commotion of leaving the harbour the ferry settled down on course for neighbouring Sifnos and it was quite perfect.  There was a calm blue sea, electric yellow sunshine and a cloudless sky, with a mythos in hand I could have stayed there on the top deck for a fortnight but it was only a short forty-five minute journey and as we watched Serifos disappear behind us in haze of heat we quickly approached Sifnos where we had stayed last year but needed more time to see the things we missed.

The boat arrived in the port of Kamares early in the afternoon and the apartment owner met us in the busy main street and drove us no more than five hundred metres to the hotel and without any fuss showed us to our little room at the top of the pretty little hotel complex.  It was absolutely delightful with traditional decoration and furniture and a terrace with a glorious view over the beach and the surrounding countryside and although I cannot adequately explain why we felt immediately at home.

It was a beautiful day and from the balcony there was an unbroken blue sky and we were surrounded by scrubby hills that were not attractive at all but paradoxically very attractive indeed.  Apparently the whole of the summer through late July and August had been spoilt by continuous gales but today there was not a hint of wind and the place was simply idyllic.

On the downside, somewhere along the way I lost my sunglasses.  I was very attached to those sunglasses, I found them on a golf course in 2003 and they have been with me ever since.

Sleeping Cat Amorgos Cyclades Greece

After we had settled in we wasted no time in going back to the harbour where there was a great selection of tavernas set along the side of the water with the sea lapping gently in a soporific sort of way and an enormous amount of fish swimming around in the expectation of being thrown chunks of left over bread.

Kamara is a lovely sort of shabby chic village with a strip of lively, colourful shops on one side of the main road and temping tavernas and bars on the other.  It is all nicely understated and feels warm, friendly and safe.  We choose a table at the water’s edge and had a leisurely meal that probably included Greek salad and calamari but I was just so relaxed that I simply cannot remember, I was so happy it was like being wrapped in a comfort blanket.

After lunch we picked a spot on the beach and lay in the sun and went for a swim and squandered the rest of the afternoon as it just casually slipped slowly away towards sunset time.  Back at the Sifnaika Konaika apartments we enjoyed early evening on the balcony of exactly the same room as last year that we had liked so much we specially requested again.  I had a cup of tea and then came to my senses and followed it up with a mythos and then there was the best part of the day when Kim found my sunglasses – I had left them in the car on the journey from the port to the hotel – what a relief!

Later we walked back to the port and we ate in the harbour of course, at a taverna with green tablecloths and a traditional rustic menu and we spent a whole evening eating, drinking and feeding the fish with the over generous portions of bread that were served with the meal.  We both liked Serifos but we liked it here better, it seemed more relaxed, more friendly and best of all less expensive.   When we had finished our meal we climbed the hill back to the apartments and sat on the balcony with a bottle of red wine until very late.


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