Croatia, Primosten

Primosten from the road

It was difficult to leave Trogir but after three hours exploring the streets and after stopping for refreshment and emergency blister treatment we returned to the car and left Trogir as we continued on our journey.

Continuing north-west with the Dinaric Alps soaring above us inland and catching a few clouds as they rushed in from the sea we stopped at the attractive little town of Primošten which occupies an especially pretty little promontory jutting out from the mainland into the sea.  In the past Primošten was situated on an islet close to the mainland and was protected by walls and towers and it was connected to the mainland by a draw bridge.

When these protective arrangements were no longer required the draw bridge was replaced by a causeway and in 1564 the settlement was named Primošten after the Croatian verb primostiti which means to span. This old part of the town is built on a hill and is dominated by the parish church of St. George which was built in 1485 next to the local graveyard from which there is a stunning view over the sea and the surrounding mountains.

This was probably the most picturesque of all of the Adriatic towns that we passed by or visited on our journey and it was lovely here today but I imagine that it can get a bit overcrowded in high summer.  We only made a very short stop because time was moving on but we found time to sit on the side of the harbour and have a drink in the sun next to some expensive looking charter boats that were moored up nearby and a table full of racing push bikers all looking ridiculous in brightly coloured skin tight lycra and insect shaped helmets.

We carried on along one of the best parts of the journey and the old old main road took a scenic route that was never more than a few metres from the sea and the shingle beaches and with good views over the Adriatic Sea and the inviting looking islands.  Except for the fact that the road wasn’t at a high elevation with imminent danger of crashing over the side of a mountain this did remind me a great deal of the Amalfi drive in Italy.  The road snaked along the coast with its inlets, yacht harbours and picturesque coastal villages and always running directly underneath the limestone mountains that rose dramatically just a few hundred metres or so inland.

We carried on north past Šibenik, which we have now by-passed three times and never had the courtesy to visit and retraced our route back towards Zadar and the airport.  On the way we stopped off at Šukosan where knew there was an excellent fish restaurant called the Kod Gusta and where we had promised ourselves a final fish meal.  At four o’clock it was empty but the staff made us feel welcome and to be consistent with all of our previous menu choices this week we choose the catch of the day that turned out to be a succulent sea bass with red gills and bright eyes and fresh from the Adriatic.   It cost 400 kuna which seemed a bit extravagant but it was delicious and well worth it.  As we dined the restaurant began to fill with locals and it became clear that this was the place where men would stop off on the way home from work for a glass of beer and plate of whitebait or calamari.

After an excellent meal we walked for the last time by the sea and enjoyed the warm late afternoon sun before it was time to go back to the airport, return the car and get the late flight home to Stansted.

It had been an excellent week in Croatia, the weather had been changeable but we had enjoyed revisiting some places from the previous year and discovering new ones as well.  The highlight had to be Dubrovnik and this is a place that I am so glad that I have visited because it was every bit as good as everyone said it would be.

2 responses to “Croatia, Primosten

  1. I want to live there!!!!

  2. Pingback: More Attractive Towns and Villages | Have Bag, Will Travel

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